Slippery Slab Tower, Thunder Mountain, Nimbus Mountain, Thor Peak, Thors Toys, and Dog Gone Peak
Carla and I parked on a spur road off of road 6095 and hiked up the
Tunnel Creek trail (#1601). At the intersection at Hope Lake we
turned right on to the PCT. As we followed the PCT through meadows on
the south slopes of The Hydrant and K9 we admired views of the peaks
we were about to climb. From Trap Pass (the 5,800' pass west of Trap
Lake) we took a climber's trail south to the base of Slippery Slab.
Slippery Slab is the first tower on the ridge, it is hard to miss.
* Slippery Slab Tower, NE face
The "obvious gully" leading to the first belay was mostly obvious.
The gully angles north from the east side of the tower, it starts
with ten feet of class 4 followed by some class 3 and ends at a belay
tree with a dihedral above. The route goes up the dihedral, exits to
the left, and continues up and slightly left to a tree that is just
below the summit block.
I placed three mid-sized nuts, one hex, and slung a horn and a tree.
It was one pitch with my 60 meter rope. I belayed off of the summit block
instead of from the tree or the sketchy rappel station below the
summit block. Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Vol 1 - Columbia River to Stevens Pass
says the route can be protected by four slings,
I would have been up a creek if that was all I had brought.
A single-rope rappel from the upper tree brought us back to our belay
* Thunder Mountain
From upper Thunder Mountain Lake, we ascended point 6,600+ (SW of the
upper lake) then descended a rotten, brushy, and somewhat difficult to
find gully that left us a hundred feet below the pass between Thunder
Mountain and point 6,600+ (I recommend our return route instead). We
ascended the SE heather slopes of Thunder Mountain to the summit
block, the summit block was straight-forward 3rd class scrambling to
the cramped summit. There were two summit registers, one dating back
On our return we traversed around the SE side of point 6,600+ back to
the lake, this was an easier and more pleasant route.
* Nimbus Mountain
Nimbus Mountain was an easy scramble from Thunder Mountain Lakes. The
only difficulty was the last 10 feet, which was a class 5 climb up a
rectangular boulder standing on side. We tossed our rope over
the boulder and top roped each other up the boulder.
* Thor Peak
From Thunder Mountain Lakes we traversed along the south slopes of
Thors Toys (point 6,680+) to the 6,160+ pass between Thor Peak and
Thors Toys. From the pass it was a straight-forward hike to the
summit of Thor Peak. Thor's summit register dated back to 1987.
* Thors Toys
We approached the summit of Thors Toys (point 6,680+) from the 6,560+
col. We kept to the top of the ridge or slightly down on the south
side of the ridge until we came to the highest crag on Thors Toys.
The actual summit was an easy 15 foot class 5 climb, easily
protectable, with exposure.
It seems unlikely that I was the first person to climb the crag, but
the top had no cairn, so I placed one. Later I read in a trip report
on The Northwest Peakbaggers Asylum
that Johnny Jeans dubbed this peak "Thors Toys", but
no mention was made of climbing it.
* Dog Gone Peak
On our way out we scrambled the south ridge of Dog Gone Peak from
Trap Pass. Ascending the ridge was a pleasant, short hike through
open forest and heather slopes.
basic rock climb/scramble
Stevens Pass, Scenic