Rooster Rock via south face

Lindsay and I parked in the Rooster Rock State Park ($3 parking fee) and walked across the lawn to Highway 14. We walked west along the highway a short distance until we found a boot path leading up a ridge/berm (right after a "Portland 22" highway sign). We followed the path through stinging nettles, past two side trails, to the dead end at the base of the climb.

We scrambled up 4th class rock to some rap anchors, traversed 10 feet right to the base of a gully, and built a gear anchor there. From our anchor it was one pitch, first up the gully on low 5th class rock to where the gully tops out on a ridge, then 4th class up the ridge to the summit. There was a lot of easy nut and hex placements in the gully. It was pretty solid rock, I didn't actually knock anything down although I avoided using some rocks for fear that they were loose. At the top there was a mess of chains embedded in concrete that we belayed and rappeled from.

We made one single-rope rappel to the rap anchors at the top of the 4th class section. Then we made a second single-rope rappel back to the base of the climb.

  • Date:
    Trip type:
    basic rock climb
    USGS quad:
    Bridal Veil
    Columbia River Gorge
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