Lundin Peak via east ridge
Bruno, Brett, Carla, Yana, and I parked at the Snoqualmie Pass PCT trailhead and headed up the Commonwealth Basin cutoff trail. We followed the trail to the Red/Lundin pass, where we headed NW up the nice climber's trail to the east peak of Lundin. (On our way back we met lots of non-climbers on this trail, so maybe it's not just a climber's trail.)
From the east peak Bruno scrambled down the rocky gully on the south side of the peak just 20 feet down from the summit. There's what looks like a well-traveled rocky path that leads west out of the gully, but it dead-ends. The gully route goes to the heather ledge visible at the bottom of the gully. The heather ledge contours around to the west side of the east peak of Lundin. (We all scrambled up this gully on our way back.)
The rest of us rappeled from the summit of the east peak of Lundin to the saddle on its west side.
From the saddle on the west side of the east peak of Lundin, we followed the rocky ridge a short distance before traversing around the north side of the middle peak of Lundin on a climber's path. From the west ridge of the middle peak we dropped down another gully to the saddle between the middle peak and the main peak.
From the middle peak we had spotted some of the big bolts on the east ridge of the main summit. We headed up the south side of the east ridge then scrambled up class 3 rock to the top of the rocky east ridge where the first bolt was.
Bruno scrambled from the first bolt to the summit. I set a fixed line between the first bolt and the mess of runners at a rap station above the third bolt and everybody else prusiked up the fixed line.
It was easy scrambling from the rap station to the summit. There's an old brass Mountaineers summit register at the top that needs new writing material.
approx. 2,845 feet
scramble/basic alpine climb
Middle Fork Snoqualmie Drainage, South Fork Snoqualmie Drainage
8 hours 42 minutes
37 minutes driving there from TNAB rendezvous point to Snoqualmie Pass PCT trailhead
2 hours 23 minutes ascending from Snoqualmie Pass PCT trailhead to East summit of Lundin Peak
2 hours ascending from East summit of Lundin Peak to Summit of Lundin Peak
58 minutes descending from Summit of Lundin Peak to East summit of Lundin Peak
2 hours 12 minutes descending from East summit of Lundin Peak to Snoqualmie Pass PCT trailhead
55 minutes driving back from Snoqualmie Pass PCT trailhead to Capitol Hill
Cascade Alpine Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Vol 1 - Columbia River to Stevens Pass
Climbing Washington's Mountains
Eric's Base Camp:
Lundin Peak via east ridge
Lundin Peak via East Ridge
Copyright © 2004 Gabriel Deal.