Argonaut Peak via south gully

Randy's trip report ( and dsweld's trip report ( do a great job of describing the route Carla and I followed, so I'm just going to highlight three sections that stood out for me.

First the brush. I don't expect brush in this part of the Cascades, but it is on this route. The animal paths through the brush help, but it was still very tiring.

Then the long, granite gully. The route makes a traversing ascent from the west side of the summit, right under the base of the pink summit slab, to the east side of the summit. Much of this traverse was on 3rd class granite and it got old.

Finally the two cruxes. First the 3rd class gully with the 4th class move, we used a hand line when descending this. Second was the summit block where we had some challenging rock scrambling, we found it easiest to pass below the two leaning blocks then ascend the final 20 feet on the west side.

It was a long and challenging trip, and it was very satisfying to finally sit on top of the summit. It is definitely on the high end of scrambles as far as technical difficulty goes.

We camped at the Ingalls Creek trail where it meets the Fourth Creek trail. On the second day we hiked up the Ingalls Creek trail to Lake Ingalls and exited via Ingalls Pass. This was an enjoyable and beautiful way to return.

Copyright © 2004 Gabriel Deal.