Static Point: Lost Charms

Summary: A nice climb in a remote-feeling area. It felt more alpine than cragging to me. Awesome, slabby rock. Some bolted belays, some gear belays. Other than the belays, there was only one bolt on the route (a rusty, loose bolt on the 5.9 slab below the Great Flake).

It took us 1.5 hours to hike to the base of On Line. Gilbert's trip report describes the approach well:

After searching in vain for the belay station at the top of Lost Charm's first pitch, I finally yelled down to Lori that I was going to go way right and build a belay from gear and brush. Thirty seconds later I found the bolted belay station. The belay station is way right, hidden by some vertical ledges.

I found the slab before the Bridge Flake to be more difficult than the 5.9 moves below the Great Flake later in the climb.

I didn't think the 5.6 finger crack was as "sweet" as Whitelaw said it was. There weren't even that many places my fingers fit into the finger crack.

I thought pitch five was awesome. I particularly enjoyed the 5.9 section and the Great Flake.

We made our last belay at the bolts above and right of the Great Flake, right below the 5.10b/c variation.

From our last belay we rapped to two new bolts (placed June 2007) that are 30+ meters above the top of the Pillar. Then we rapped to two new bolts immediately above the pillar (this requires a double-rope rappel). Then we continued to rap down the Pillar route. We were never quite sure if our ropes were long enough for us to skip a rap station, so we ended up making five raps in total.

Lori's pictures and route info here:

Copyright © 2004 Gabriel Deal.